Hook, Line & Delicious
Variety of Tastes from the Sea are Aplenty on Local Tables
By Christine Van Bloem
Photos Courtesy Turner Photography Studio
Take a look at any menu throughout Maryland and you’re sure to find crab, crab cakes, crab dip, crab pretty much anywhere it works. But more than just that little blue crustacean, you’ll find fantastic seafood of all varieties on the menus here in Frederick County.
From fine restaurants to home-style paper-covered picnic tables, there’s a wide array of options for the seafood lover, whatever your mood. With Frederick just 90 minutes from the Chesapeake Bay and a few hours from the Atlantic Ocean, you’ll find plenty of fresh local fish and shellfish. Distribution systems have improved impressively over the years, allowing East Coast purveyors to share their catch quickly, making fresh fish and shellfish readily accessible up and down the coast.
Avery’s Maryland Grille
To the inexperienced, cooking fish can be tricky and a bit intimidating. A minute too long and you’ll be punished with chewy, dry meat. Undercook and the texture and taste are off and food safety dangers arise. Fortunately, the restaurants here know what they’re doing, and regardless of whether you’re looking for a dinner of fried oysters or the finest sautéed or poached fillets, you’ll find it throughout the county.
Fratelli’s Italian and Seafood in Middletown understands that sustainability is key and receives seafood from Baltimore and Kent Island, working to provide local fish to their customers. Celebrating five years in business in Frederick County, Fratelli’s is known not only for its tasty seafood dishes, even providing a different fish entrée special five nights a week, but for excellent homemade pasta as well.
Stop by any day and you’ll find a machine churning out ribbons of freshly made pasta, including the popular squid ink linguine, turned into a spectacular special of Seafood Antonio, loaded with jumbo lump crab, big juicy shrimp, sea scallops, mussels, littleneck clams and lobster tossed in a lemon-butter sauce reminiscent of the traditional French beurre blanc.
The Main Cup
With a mountain of perfectly cooked tender shellfish and generous portions, Fratelli’s is often packed. Open seven days a week and for lunch as well, it’s worth the trip over Braddock Mountain to enjoy the outstanding offerings. When in season, you’ll also find Maryland striped bass, known locally as rockfish, featured on the menu, including the Rockfish Aragosta, with a perfectly seared and seasoned rockfish on a bed of garlic mashed potatoes, topped with sauteed lobster and a not-too-heavy vodka sauce. Popular dishes include creamy Seafood Alfredo and Seafood Fra Diavlo, served with a homemade sauce spiced with Calabrian chilies. You’ll also find iterations of grouper, mahi-mahi, tuna, amberjack, snapper and swordfish on the menu, which is available for dine-in or takeout.
Venture further into town, and you’ll find The Main Cup right on Main Sreet. Known for American fare and just recently under new management, you’ll find lighter seafood options including their ever-popular Balsamic Salmon and Strawberry Salad. With mixed greens, freshly sliced strawberries and sliced almonds, then tossed with a house-made orange basil vinaigrette, the salad is then topped with a perfectly cooked grilled salmon filet. You’ll also find their take on ahi tuna, a top-selling dish that ditches the standard Asian vibe for a blackened version of seared sushi grade tuna sliced and served over a Cajun slaw. The fish is just lightly seared and has a bit of a kick.
Looking to grab something delicious to enjoy at home for dinner? Make your way to Main Street in Myersville for a quick trip to JB Seafood. This takeout establishment has some of the best cream of crab soup you’ll find in the area. Offering a menu meant for casual dining, you’ll find sandwiches, steamed shrimp, and even a crab pizza to go. You can order ahead by phone.
CATCHES OF THE DAY
Take a trip into Frederick, and you’ll find options galore for the seafood lover. Stop by Showroom for their modern-take on mid-Atlantic comfort foods. Though fish and chips are ubiquitous on many local menus, Showroom’s version features three sizeable cod fillets covered in a batter made with its own Gold Lager, produced by local brewery Vanish specifically for the restaurant. It adds a pronounced beer essence to the dish that complements the flaky fish. Served with gribiche, a sauce made with white wine vinegar, Dijon mustard and capers, there’s a pleasant acidity to balance the richness of the batter. Of course, malt vinegar is always available, too.
Be sure to tuck into the Shrimp & Grits while you’re there. Noshing on the coarse stone-ground grits give the dish a bit more texture, with five plump shrimp served over a silky gravy that includes finely diced Tasso ham and andouille sausage, bringing a gentle heat to the dish. If you’re pescatarian, you can always ask for the dish sans ham and sausage, and the friendly staff is happy to accommodate.
Hit Market Street and stop by The Tasting Room for a taste of its seafood lover-friendly menu, featuring six fish-centric appetizers ranging from Hamachi crudo with jalapeño relish, kosho aioli and dressing (kosho is a Japanese condiment made from fresh chiles fermented with salt and yuzu) to Spanish Octopus with Romesco sauce, fingerling potatoes, harissa chermoula, frisée, golden raisins and almonds. You’ll also find several seafood entrees, including a Chilean sea bass in a tomato curry with chickpeas, fingerling potatoes and hearts of palm. Don’t forget a side of the ever-famous Lobster Whipped Potatoes with rivulets of melted chive butter while you’re there. It’s well worth the $20 splurge.
Work your way south on Market Street for a stop at Hootch & Banter for the Ahi-chos, a take on nachos with a soy-lime-infused ahi tuna tartare served over wonton chips with all of the accoutrements, and the everything pretzel-crusted fried Haddock, a fun and unique version of fish and chips. While you’re there, be sure to sample one of their divine cocktails, as well. The Show Me How You Burlesque, with McClintock Distilling’s Forager’s Gin, elderflower liqueur, sweet vermouth, lemon, orange juice and peach bitters is a delightful cocktail perfect to help you usher in spring.
If you’re thinking sushi, here’s a tip: When you walk into a sushi or really any fish restaurant, it should give off a pleasant fragrance, reminiscent of the ocean. Good, fresh fish should have almost no odor at all.
On East Patrick Street, just a few doors from the Square Corner and up a flight of stairs, you’ll find Lazy Fish, where the freshest sushi and sashimi are the star of the show. In the gorgeously decorated dining room, you’ll choose from a menu loaded with inventive sushi rolls and other main courses. Even non-fish lovers will find something that appeals. If you can, try to sit in a booth looking out over Patrick Street for excellent people watching. While you’re there, a Lemongrass Mojito is light and refreshing and the perfect addition to any sushi feast. Don’t be surprised when it looks like a small forest of lemongrass has taken over your glass. The lemony fragrance only adds to the cocktail and is way more fun than any traditional swizzle stick.
If you’re craving maki rolls, The Lazy Fish is a crowd favorite and includes shrimp tempura, masago (edible eggs of the capelin fish), avocado, scallions and teriyaki sauce, and is then topped with a creamy crab mixture. Another popular roll is The Keys, with Chilean sea bass tempura, avocado, roasted garlic, Hawaiian barbecue sauce and wasabi sauce, then topped with spicy tuna. If you’re looking for a little crunch, give the Tempuradon a try. This bowl includes tempura shrimp and vegetables over rice and is a delicious option if raw fish isn’t your thing.
FINS TO THE LEFT, FINS TO THE RIGHT
Making your way out of Downtown Frederick, you know that you can’t talk seafood in Frederick without thinking Dutch’s Daughter. This longtime Frederick favorite provides dozens of options for the seafood lover. Your only problem will be choosing from the extensive menu! Whether you prefer the more formal dining room upstairs or the casual bar, Dutch’s Dungeon, downstairs, you’ll find fresh favorites of every variety with both the lunch and dinner menus available on any floor. Crab or Seafood Sauté seasoned in butter or a creamy Cajun sauce or a Seafood Platter, broiled or fried, are just a few of the many entrees available. You may also want to give the Sunday brunch buffet a go, with crab omelets, crab dip and Blackened Honey-Glazed Salmon included on the menu. Of course, the Dutch’s crab cake is always an excellent choice.
If you’re feeling more casual, visit Avery’s Maryland Grille just south of town for crabs, shrimp, oysters, clams and more in a relaxed environment. The picnic tables under the covered deck in back are a local favorite for dining throughout the season whether you’re looking to enjoy a beautiful day or just need some elbow room while you’re picking crabs from their all-you-can-eat menu. In addition to hard shell crabs and crab soup, you can add crab legs, and shrimp or clams, either fried or steamed. Not just another crab house, Avery’s also serves rockfish, both fried and imperial style with a creamy crab topping, along with steamer pots and variety platters for when you’re having a tough time choosing just one item.
As you venture east on Md. 26, you’ll find Liberty Road Seafood, where they have served fresh seafood and crabs in a family friendly atmosphere for more than 40 years. Dig into all-you-can-eat hard shell crabs, steamed clams or mussels, clam strips or fried fish, and you’re going to have a great night. If all-you-can-eat is a bit much for you, you’ll also find soups, salads, and sandwiches, including a soft-shell crab when in season. It’s fun for the whole family, with special pricing for children 11 and younger. Whatever you do, don’t forget the hush puppies!
Of course, this is just a very small taste of the many seafood options that can be found throughout the county. Perhaps you have your own favorite. Just remember to bring your appetite wherever you choose to drop anchor.